The "Farm," Zulu Idol, and Thorn Tree Trek

                                    

Over the weekend, I thought I was going to spend a quiet time at a farm, but instead found myself amongst traditional Zulu dancers. What I believed to be a "farm" turned out to be an epicenter of Zulu culture, more specifically the Kwahlangabeza Cultural Hub. Kwahlangabeza is a lodge designed like a village of traditional Zulu huts that buzzes with traditional and modern Zulu life. It was pretty cool to stay inside a hut, look up in bed and see a thatched-grass roof, and have amenities of running water, toilet, and satellite TV.

                                   

There was a very lively birthday party that attracted what seemed like the whole surrounding community. The party even included a local competition for Zulu singing and dancing. There were more or less a dozen groups who performed. Many of them were choirs of men singing in the isicathamiya style. Isicathamiya- derived from the Zulu verb -cathama, meaning tread carefully- is a Zulu style a cappella singing that focuses on harmonious blending of voices and incorporates tightly-choreographed dance that keep singers on their toes, literally on their toes. Isicathamiya was popularized in the West by Ladysmith Black Mambazo, who lent their voices to some of Paul Simon's tracks in the '80s. (Yes, Ladysmith Black Mambazo is from the town of Ladysmith where I'm spending most of my time working.) These singing groups were amazing. Although I couldn't understand the meaning of the songs, I was moved by their powerful voices and dances, which were exploding with energy and emotion. This was my favorite group.

                                   

Then there were the traditional Zulu dancers. My favorite was Sweet Seven, a group of boys from secondary school who were jumping, tumbling, doing high kicks, and added a modern touch- a guitar.

                                    

The competition was followed by a night of dancing, and the party lasted into the wee hours of the morning. There's no party quite like an African party.

The next day provided some time for hiking and solitude in nature on the beautiful farm grounds. We hopped on rocks across a small river, rested on a bed of black slate facing an imposing mountain, and walked through forests of indigenous thorn trees. Despite their gnarled branches and thorns that are as long as one's thumb and as thick as a crochet needle, they create a graceful and striking form. All in all, it was a magical experience to be at the heart of KwaZulu-Natal.